The things in my life that I look forward to every day: Far tooo much coffee! Friends & laughter. Relaxing over a good meal & a beer. A decent conversation about important issues; personal & business, community, national or global ... all issues are welcome.
Recent versions of Photoshop have an automatic Red Eye Removal tool. But what do you do when that tool fails as it does all too often with people, and always with pets?
Here’s one technique that I like to use. I’m going to illustrate it on a pet photo featuring “green eye”, but the same trick works on people with red eye, too.
1. Zoom in on the eye of your subject
2. Get your Paintbrush (Keyboard shortcut B)
3. Set your foreground color to black
4. In the options bar, set the brush mode to Color, opacity 100%
By painting with the brush in this mode, we will desaturate the area that we paint.
The term “photo blog” has almost become redundant. Between the popularity of microblogging, and the fact that smartphones are capable of producing high-quality images, our digital communication has become increasingly photo-centric. We consume so much content in our digital lives, it seems we’ve developed a need for it to be presented in the simplest, most efficient way possible. Enter: the photo blog.
So how can you get in on the action? There are a few basic rules. First, it should be said, a photo blog can be pretty much anything you want it to be, so long as your content is predominantly –- you guessed it — photos. These pics can be your own, pulled in from across the web, submitted by users or some combination of the three. Basically, when it comes to photo blogs, there are many options.
Here’s how to get started. >>>HOW TO: Get Started With Photo Blogging.
Your digital camera, whether it’s built in to your cellphone or it’s a hefty DSLR, is an incredible creative tool. If you’ve only used it as it comes straight out of the box, however, you’re only scratching the surface. Here are our top 10 photography hacks to supercharge your camera.
Here at Digital Focus, I often write about the science and technology of photography. But while the software, gadgets, and photo editing techniques are fun, some of the most important lessons in photography aren’t about the technology at all. This week, let’s set aside high-tech photo editing like high dynamic range and hyperfocal photography, and instead talk about a few of the most basic–and common–rules of composition. Mastering these rules can help you turn what could be a simple snapshot into something more–into a story about the moment in time in which the photo was taken.
Follow the Rule of Thirds
Most people are at least somewhat familiar with the rule of thirds. The rule of thirds is utterly ubiquitous: Every movie and TV show makes almost constant use of it, and professional photographers avoid putting the subject in the center of the frame almost without exception. To understand it, draw two lines through a photo, dividing it into thirds. This turns it into something like a tic-tac-toe board, as you see here.
At its essence, the rule of thirds says that you’ll get the most interesting photos when your subject isn’t in the center of the frame, but rather is positioned off-center, to the left, right, up, or down. You can position your subject at any of the four intersection points of the third lines, or along one of the four lines, like the birds in this example.
As we all know, making mistakes is part of the learning process. More often than not, you just have to learn things the hard way.
But if you’re lucky, someone who has already done something stupid will tell you about it, and thus spare you the bother of repeating the same mistake.
* Leaving the lens cap on when preparing to take someones picture.
This is something I’m sure everyone has done at least once, and isn’t such a big deal really. But doing this when photographing a TV anchorman in the middle of huge open office area, full of media people watching their coworker being photographed? Priceless.
* Using your new flash on assignment before properly learning how it works.
Shortly after getting my first Speedlite (in early 2006 this was) I was hired to photograph a prominent Icelandic politician and his equally well-known wife. I hadn’t read anything about the settings and just decided to wing it, and spent a good deal of time and energy fooling around with it while talking a mile a minute, hoping nobody would realize that I hardly knew what I was doing. Needless to say, the best photo I got that day was taken without the damn flash.
The word “bokeh” comes from the Japanese word “boke” (pronounced bo-keh) which literally means fuzziness or dizziness.
What is bokeh? You have seen it. I know you have. You just may not have known the name. In photography, bokeh defines the quality of the blurred image presented in a photo. I am not referring to a badly taken photo that’s all out of focus, but rather the aesthetically pleasing background blur. Usually, this type of blur highlights the focused subject even more. To produce a bokeh you must utilize a shallow depth of field.
I shoot my macro images with my Sony 100mm 2.8 lens. A larger aperture works best, so use a low f-stop number like f1.4, f1.8 or f2.8.
Bokeh usually works best when taking an up close picture of your subject. Try finding a subject with nice clear lighting that you are able to get a good close up of. That is not to say that one can not get great bokeh using lenses with a smaller maximum aperture like the kit lens sold with most entry level DSLRs. The trick is to make sure you are using the largest aperture possible (smallest f number).
Set your camera to aperture priority and select the lowest number. Remember in aperture priority your camera will set the shutter speed. Sometimes this gets a bit tricky if you are shooting flowers on a windy day or a bug that is on the move. You might need to switch to shutter priority and shoot at least 1/250 to stop the movement. At 1/250 you will more than likely have a larger aperture – just be mindful of your aperture when shooting in shutter priority. Most photographers can handhold their camera with their shutter set at 1/60th of a second. For anything below, a tripod is recommended because of camera shake.
Posted in Contest on April 18, 2011
Los Angeles Times photographer Barbara Davidson won the Pulitzer for a series of images including this one of Erica Miranda, 10, who was shot three times while playing basketball outside her home in Compton, Calif. Barbara Davidson/Los Angeles Times/Associated Press
Montreal-born Barbara Davidson, a photographer working for the Los Angeles Times, is among the winners of Pulitzer Prizes announced Monday.
She won the feature photography award for a series of images about victims of street violence in Los Angeles. Davidson spent nearly two years gaining the trust of insular communities such as South Los Angeles, Compton and Watts before taking striking images of those who were shot, many of them innocent victims.
This is Davidson’s second Pulitzer — she won for her coverage of Hurricane Katrina when she worked for the Dallas News.
There are seven Pulitzer Prizes for drama, music and letters and 14 for journalism, although the award for breaking news was not given this year. The award is administered by Columbia University and comes with $10,000 US.